All images: Elle.com (except where noted)
Paris Fashion Week SP07
Themes: Architecture, Rock Stars, Gold, Greek Goddesses, Countryside Comfort, Gothic, Structure, proportion-play, optical illusions, Space-Age
This collection was a fusion of the French courtesan resurrected as a Goth queen. Structured tailoring and over-exaggeration of hips and hemlines added drama to the pieces. Nods to antique botany and lace were modernized with contemporary silhouettes.
Bui’s collection was a show of upgraded rock & roll chic with a definitive architectural influence; Her pieces played with the idea of positive and negative spaces in their most literal form.
Menswear-inspired, structured, and architecturally-slanted pieces ruled the runway. Ghesquière’s collection showed a drift from his famous voluminous pieces towards a slender, sleeker “smoking” style à la YSL. Later Ghesquière introduced futuristic shapes and silhouettes, and we’re given a vision of a rugged Galactica, enhanced with patent leather and metallic accents.
Yuppy, sporty prep-wear, mod shifts, heightened hemlines, and a youthful air gave a freshness to the classic line. The stock-trade runway (perhaps a nod to youth consumerism?) added to the “yes” appeal of the very wearable collection. Buy!Buy!
The whimsical line took a dip into the 70s with simple schoolgirl shifts, and retro prints, bold colors, and busy patterns. The looks were divided: there were those of a primary, simplistic kind and those over-the-top gilded pieces reminiscent of a Gustav Klimpt painting in a psychedelic trance. Does the Chloe girl want to be a working girl, or live la vie bohême? Perhaps she can do both!
Draped goddesses traipsed down the runway like ancient Grecian royalty. The collection was a study in the form, fabric manipulation, and the art of draping. Gently beaded dresses and draped silks enhanced the feminine looks.
With a play on graffiti and other youthful art forms, the Lacroix collection was fashion as wearable art-literally. Proportion and pattern-play, loud colors, and volume were all a nod to art-school chic.
This sensuous Mediterranean goddess is prepared for a lazy, luxurious vacation. Sophisticated, yet decidedly soft textures create a feminine elegance that exudes relaxed chic without appearing sloppy where even patchwork gets an upgrade. This collection hits all the right chords of achieving understated femininity.
Jean Paul Gaultier
This was a fun collection referencing sporty jocks by re-imagining the sports uniform. Bold colors, and athletic accessories were never overly utilitarian or boyish; instead the mood was light and bubbly with bold glittering silks and wildly-colored jersey numbers.
Studded, jeweled frocks graced the runway with an undeniable rock star presence. The crowd-pleasing line was filled with graphic prints and short studded shifts that were a nod to 80’s punk rock style.
The accessories took center stage at the Vuitton show, where designers gave a mocking wink to the knock-offs of Canal street by producing a Chinatown bag stamped with the Louis Vuitton logo. It will be interesting to see if this actually makes it onto the streets, and if people will buy into this obvious satire. This collection could easily be a metaphor for the bag lady, as voluminous jackets and puffy shoulder details added to the collector-like quality of the overly decorative accessories and dresses layers in mismatched fabrics and ribbons. Volume, layers, bows, and ruching will call for clever styling come springtime. The trick will be gaining that just-right balance without looking over-burdened.
Accessories Images: Style.com
Perhaps a nod to the patriotism, this collection clung closely to the Red, White, and Blue palette, yet remained decidedly French. Slim fits, mod shift dresses and graphically-inclined dresses created an overall classic, patriotic feel, without being cloying.
McCartney created a line of understated sexiness. The look was uncomplicated in it’s soft silhouettes, and simple sophistication, creating and sultriness that didn’t scream sexy, but instead subtly announced sex appeal.
Valentino yet again creates a line of classic elegance with bold dashes of colors, and timeless shapes. The Valentino woman mixes work with pleasure, but means business when it comes to style. Tough –looking designs gave way to frills and flounce, including a delicious coral ruffled gown.
The stars were out, and not only in the front row. This collection was a tribute to the star in the most literal sense-dresses and blouses were emblazoned in bold graphic stars, and encrusted in rhinestones. Wild graphics, accented tops and fringe were definitely stage-ready.
Yves Saint Laurent
Gingham checkers played on negative and positive color spaces. Volume was reigned-in with sensible silhouettes creating a sleek, sexy line. These were wearable, classic separates with a timeless edge that spoke modernity at the same time.