This is late, I know, but I really wanted to find the right words to put together for these shows. And I will be doing another post for London following this one. The following are SOME of the shows I attended with highlights from each show. Feel free to comment. Friday is London, and Monday is Milan, so stay tuned… Tatiana
Overall themes: New York
AFRICA, The Safari, Grecian Queens, Cocktail Hour, Balloon Silhouettes, Bold Prints, 80’s revisited, Pleats, Black & White, Limited Color Palettes
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs pays homage to the working girl in this series of layers, quirky, yet sophisticated separates. Thoughts of Lower East Side tenements, and assistants with flair came to mind. These are the cool kids, but they just don’t know it yet. The look had a recycled, vintagey feel, with it’s oversized buttons and Peter Pan collars. There were subtle hints of gold and shimmer that added excitement but kept the pieces from being overly gawdy. Marc’s collection will undoubtedly have the New York girls craving more!
Scottish influences and Celtic prints abound in this sportswear collection. Though unforgiving to bodily flaws, the gowns lend easily to the Lycra-spandex fabric. The collection was quite ambiguous, leaving room for error (if this is such a good thing).
This small collection was heavy on concept and light on actual design. Opened by a performance by the Hysteria dance Company, with his hurried, wildness, the dance didn’t quite correlate to the clothing, a 10-piece collection of tightly structured contemporary sportswear. These are clothes that work for you. They don’t wear you-you wear them, and you will get your money’s worth. With the background sound of churning wheels and cranking of engines, the message was this: These clothes do the work.
This collection saw Catherine depart from her comfortable realm of lace and crochet into a demure sophisticated woman of the evening. The evening saw unexpected silhouettes, from the short yet chic cocktail dresses and the voluminous trench coats. Never showing too much skin, the Malandrino girl knows how to be just sexy enough without being a tart, and this collection defines city glamour, glitz, and confidence.
This show was a collection of Barbie-dolls come to life. Recalling imagery of 80’s baby-doll clothing and late 70s summer camp, this collection creates a mixture of rock and roll, ruffles, and pure childhood fun.
Elegant Grecian gowns and delicate embroidery fill this rich collection of eveningwear. Some of the best pieces come from the expertly tailored tuxedo suit, and intricate bead detailing.
Without a doubt, the stars of the show were Laura Proetzky’s shoes. Now working in partnership with Payless, the summer satin flats and heels were the perfect mix of glamour and comfort. Editor’s Favorite? The “Birkin” flat in blue. This season was followed by more of the balloon silhouette, which has taken a chokehold of the tents. Another fun and quirky element for this collection? The fun use of bold, graphic prints.
The Spring 07 runway was attacked by goddess-like swans. Again, a return to Grecian, and Hollywood glam done like no other duo. Amazingly these luscious, sumptuous fabrics and intricate beading managed to maintain a light and ethereal feel.
The theme was Nostalgia, and quite possibly it was a reminder that summer was almost over but we’d still have these pieces to remind us of the sweet times once again. This show was a real crowd-pleaser with sexy, wearable and impeccably tailored pieces. Editors delighted in the structured pleats, and the detailed finishes of the high waistbands. A headliner of this show was a fantastic banana-colored one piece maillot with side-openings. Sizzling-ly sweet!
Chado Ralph Rucci
What a way to end fashion week! This couture-heavy collection was none short of amazing. Models floated gracefully down the runway in porcupine quill-embellished capes, and fur-lined down coats, yet there was a certain modernity that permeated the collection. Subtle embroidered pieces were balanced with symmetrical lines, and the stark use of color subdues the sometimes-voluminous silhouettes.
Always the crowd-pleaser Monique presented likeable, wearable cocktail dresses reminiscent of the late Lady Di. For the lady who lunches (and sometimes tends to the Red Carpet), this collection never fell short of dazzling bejeweled necklines, fine pleating, and the popular trapeze look.
Deceivingly complicated fabric choices lend well to this contemporary line of pantsuits and dresses. Even in silk and suede, the pieces never seemed fussy, or old beyond it’s years. The sleek cuts gave a nice balance to the rich fabric textures and embroidery. The highlight: A pink satin-striped column dress was pure candy confection.
Lots of silk, tulle and soft, ethereal, and voluminous fabrics added to the whimsical nature of this collection. The collection clung tightly to a small color palette, perhaps to its benefit: with little distraction one could come to appreciate the intricate beading, tailoring, and surprise movement of the gowns.
Sweet summer dresses and the return of the eyelet were a staple of Akiko’s pieces. The collection reflected a soft, girly, almost candy-like sweetness that would be lost had it not been for the strikingly structured trenches that followed.
Buttery leather and master craftsmanship dominated this show. This was a presentation of sophisticated cowboys and girls, heavy on glitz and gracing the thin line of Vegas gimmickry.
But Manuel and son always managed to retain dignity by introducing well-manicured leatherworking with only the slightest hint of rough and tumble here and there.
Michelle Smith can always be relied-upon for sweet, feminine dresses and this collection saw no diversion. Some dresses bordered on campy nostalgic seen in the over-the top graphic prints reminiscent of an Austin Power’s flick. These pieces brought images of the 60’s California girl: clearly mod-inspired, but still earthy and organic.
This collection by Brazilian designer Carlos Miele was refreshingly substantial, considering the bad rap many Brazilian designers get for scant coverage. This collection had a few Cavalli-esque animal-print references, but maintained it’s own with billowy chiffon dresses, and bold, jewel-encrusted, evening gowns emblazoned with graphic prints.
Soft Linens and relaxed cuts provided for easy, wearable summer pieces for the city. This collection saw a return to the 80’s jumpsuit styles, only revamped, and with a sleeker, more modern appeal.
This show had a Dynasty-Meets-Cowboys-Meets-Disco flair about it. The clothing lent more to show than everyday wear with its outrageous beading and over-the-top head dresses. This collection is for the old-riche set, out to make an entrance.